That Fourpure are not starry-eyed hobbyists is clear from the moment you wander into their Bermondsey brewery. The kit - much of it bought from Purity in Warwickshire - is sizeable and the bar area, with its huge map of the world and wall-mounted keg taps, betrays a professionalism that should serve them well. That carries through into the beer: all are good (as they should be: brewer John Driebergen learnt his trade at Brooklyn and Meantime), but the oatmeal stout - rich, bitter and just about sessionable - is perhaps the best of the lot.